Day 20 - Vierlingsbeek to Swolgen, Sept. 30

Another lovely walking day! After leaving the Concordia hotel, where we were the only guests, we soon left the village and entered the lovely fields and woodlands. We soon came across the biggest field of kale we have ever see. Enormous!!!! Jeff loved it! Because he loves boeren kool with worst. It seemed we were in the vegetable belt of Holland. A giant field of carrots and turnips were around the corner.

We were not lucky with coffee stops. A lot were closed. We did find a bakery that served tea and almond cakes. 

One of today's highlights was the sand dunes we walked through. We had the place to ourselves. In fact, we rarely meet anyone on the PP. Very peaceful. 

We are in Swolgen right now at the Oude Pastorie, a b & b. The church bell is going wild right now. We are supposed to be here two nights and have tomorrow as a rest day. However, there is NOTHING to do here. Maybe look at some sheep. It is also a challenge to find some dinner. A bar is open and we are going there.

We have decided to go on to Venlo, a much bigger place, and spend two nights there. The lady in charge here would not budge but we are going anyway. A taxi from Venlo is picking up our luggage. We have to share a bathroom here and we already had to say through the door, "bezet!". I have to admit that it is an amazing structure. It really used to be a parsonage, probably catholic. 

We are loving the walking. The accommodations sometimes are stressful. But we are learning lots, mostly about ourselves. Haha!

Day 19 - Heijen to Vierlingsbeek, Sept. 29

We survived our night in the tiny room of the boat. The owners cooked a five course meal for us that was spread over three hours. Half way through I was done eating and began to yawn. Not out of boredom. Just from walking all day. But I nibbled at whatever was put in front of me.

Today was another lovely day. We were surprised by a beautiful nature area called De Quin, dunes, heather and water. Soon after, we were in Afferden where Jeff used a bank machine. The guy in front of him withdrew 200 Euros but forgot to take his money. Jeff yelled, "Meneer, Meneer" as the guy was getting into his car. He was very grateful and Jeff became a momentary (and monetary) hero of the village.

After Afferden we had to cross the Maas River. A tiny ferry goes back and forth, dodging monster river boats. 

We have arrived in Vierlingsbeek and are settling into the Concordia, the local hotel here. A bit seedy but....very bright corner room. Three windows with sun streaming in. We have a dinner reservation for 6 pm where a dag schotel (plate of the day) will be served. Like home, I guess. 

The walking is going well for both Jeff and I. There is lots of variety so time goes fast. Tomorrow to Swolgen where we have a day of rest, the last one. Then, there are only 6 days of walking left.

Day 18 - Groesbeek to Heijen (just past Gennep), Sept. 28

We really enjoyed our stay at De Oude Molen in Groesbeek yesterday. Nice big room and good dinner. Very friendly guy. The only thing wrong with it was the killer staircase we had to go up and down. One of those very narrow, steep jobs!  In contrast, we are now on a river boat and our sleeping quarters are 6 by 8 feet and 6 1/2 feet high. In there is a double bed, 2 suitcases and 2 backpacks. But we are able to use the back deck where we are now sitting, in the sunshine.

We had a bit of trouble getting out of Groesbeek. Not great signage again. But soon we were on the right track and we wandered through magnificent woods, all morning. We heard gunshots nearby and this fed into my war fantasies. It was cannon shots to scare birds from the tiny vineyard we passed. Yes, Holland has one. There was supposed to be a cafe when we eventually emerged from the woods. It was there but it was closed. Could not believe it. Plan B kicked in and we sat on the patio and had a bun and some juice. Some bushes were used for facilities. 

The afternoon consisted of a very long but lovely small road that eventually led us into Gennep. At an intersection we met two ladies planting some flowers. They told us their son and brother had died there in a car accident 19 years ago and they maintained a memorial. We had a lovely chat with these women. They were fascinated with us doing the PP. 

we finally had our cappuccinos in Gennep. A lovely,

lively town with a beautiful townhall. Where we are now, in this boat, is on the Maas River. In Heijen, just south of Gennep. The couple on board are going to cook dinner for us.

Day 17 - Millingen to Groesbeek, Sept. 27

This morning we woke up to completely blue skies. Paul, our host, said it would be an "ouwewijven zomer", the Dutch for Indian summer. The B & B was wonderful and the breakfast awesome. But I always find something to complain about and this time it was the perfumed sheets. They were washed in a strongly perfumed detergent. I take Reactin for those type of things. Because my nose plugs up. The hotel here in Groesbeek, the Oude Molen, gave us a great room. But.... tiny towels. Like trying to dry yourself with a hanky. The places we stay in have been as interesting as the walk itself. 

After breakfast, we were driven back to Millingen to begin our 21 km day. Very soon we found ourselves on boot cleaning wet grass paths. These went on for several kilometres, at the edge of fields. Very peaceful! After walking through Leuth we deked in and out of Germany again, like yesterday. We came across a Camino de Santiago sign and realized we're on the actual route! That was a thrill.

It was Sunday, a nice day, and lots of people about. This was especially so when we encountered a serious climb through the woods and up Duivelsberg. But what a reward. The Duivelsberg pannekoekhuys restaurant was right there off the trail at the top. Over 100 people were sitting there on the patio enjoying lunch and sunshine. We restrained ourselves and had tomato and vegetable soup. Quite boring considering that on the menu they offered a pancake with advocaat, my weakness. Can't believe I let that pass me by.

After the lunch we continued through the woods and past lovely rolling fields. It is not flat anymore.

 Soon, we saw the Dutch and Canadian flags flying on either side of a big stone cross. It was the Canadian War Cemetery. We wanted to visit but it was a bit of a detour that we made up later. I found the grave of a 19 yr. old from Hope, BC. These people died 70 years ago already. The place looks immaculate. 

We have walked about 328 km and have about 170 or so to go. Nine more walking days. We are getting there!

Day 16 - Braamt to Millingen-on-the-Rhine. Sept. 26

Great weather has returned and we left Braamt behind, in sunshine, at 8:40 this morning. It was a long day of 24 km and we are feeling it right now. For the first two hours we climbed a hill and walked through woods. When we finally emerged back into the sunshine we were in Germany and there was a pannekoekhuys waiting for us just at about the noon hour. You NEVER pass that by. This was in Elten. 

After enjoying apple pancakes we had a long slog beside a road, cars and bikes whizzing by. We soon saw the mighty Rhine and our walk took us on a long dike. Also, cars on that. Our reward turned out to be the town of Tolkamer which has several outdoor cafes right on the dike overlooking the river. Weather was sunny so it was very cosy sitting with all those people outside watching the river boats passing by. 

Another hour or so brought us to the ferry which eventually took us across the river to Millingen. This could be compared to the Barnston Island ferry except no cars at all. The ferry driver was dodging all those long river boats coming by. We had to wait for our ride to a B & B in Leuth so we just ordered some more tea and people watched. 

Now we are at the B & B and what a place. We have a whole apartment to ourselves. There are no funny smells or unappetizing people. The last place I was SO happy to leave. 

There are 10 walking days left so we are definitely on the home stretch. We have immensely enjoyed it so far!

Day 15 - Zelhem to Braamt, Sept. 25

Another lovely day of walking with Brian and Florence. Jeff and I were driven back to Zelhem and met them at about 9:15 for the start of the day's walk. Signage out of the town was good. However, we entirely missed the Slagenburg Kasteel. Florence got us back to the Pieterpad without backtracking. After going under a busy expressway we were rewarded with a cappuccino and apple tart at a lovely, old Cafe, Het Onland. From the 1700's. Lots of character......and "riete stoolen".

We set off again and started looking for a bench for lunch. Only one bench today but we were glad of it to rest our feet and eat our buns. The last part of the route, just before Braamt, took us along a very primitive path bordering a field. Really fun to find yourself off road in the middle of farm land. 

And finally we saw a windmill and arrived in Braamt. We all went to our little auberge and had beer and bitterballen. We had to say goodbye to Brian and Florence who had to bus and train their way back to Velp near Arnhem. We had a great two days with them and will miss them as we continue on tomorrow. We have entered the area of the big rivers and tomorrow plan to take a small ferry across part of the Rhine. 

Day 14 - Vorden to Zelhem, Sept. 24

We enjoyed the Hotel Bakker in Vorden for two nights but it was time to move on. At 9:15 we met Florence and Brian at the railway station. We could not believe we were meeting each other. Off we went, the four of us, and very soon arrived at the Kasteel Vorden as well as the Pieterpad monument. This consists of some brass footprints made by the two women who had the idea of the Pieterpad. Of course, Florence and I had to place our boots in those famous footprints.

It was an easy day again, through woods and fields, and soon we looked forward to coffee. But the little Proathuusje was closed. Plan B was a sandwich from our backpacks and a swig of water. On we went. The day flew by because of all the cosy talking we did. Easy to get lost now because we were not paying too much attention. But the guys kept their eyes on the trees and posts for the familiar sign. We did come across another gorgeous red mushroom and had to take a pic. Just before entering Zelhem the path took us through a farmyard and right along the edge of a field. This farmer had given his permission to allow us to pass. We also came across another self serve place where you could make coffee, etc. and enjoy a snack, for a small fee. Loved that!

In Zelhem we had to wait for our ride to our accommodation in Braamt. There was plenty of time for some beer and bitterballen. 

We are less than enchanted with our room but we can turn radiators on and dry our little wash. We are grateful for small things.