Day 13 - Laren to Vorden, Sept. 23 - Half Way!!!!!

We are excited because Book I is done. We are half way. I have added my steps and have walked 357,722 steps (according to my Fitbit), not counting the rest days. This is for 13 days of walking. 

We stayed in Vorden last night and were brought back to Laren after breakfast. It was an uneventful day, just 14 km, through peaceful forests and farmlands. No villages so we sat on all the benches that we passed. Each time we have a small snack. The weather cleared up and is quite beautiful right now. 

This area seems to be where the gentry used to live. Lots of big estates, now owned by the government. Lovely little castles in beautiful surroundings. One we passed was called Den Bramel. Some date back to 14th century. 

We have been using Jeff's cell phone to take pics. His camera is too cumbersome and it has also been too wet. If Jeff is in the pic then I took it. If I am in the pic Jeff did. If the object is low, like another mushroom, I take those because Jeff can't bend too well re his back!

We finally had a tasty dinner, last night, here at the Hotel Bakker in Vorden. We enjoyed some zee tong (sole) which was filleted off the bone at our table. 

My feet are holding up as is Jeff's back (after he moves around a bit in the morning). So we are looking forward to the next 13 days and hope all goes well.

Day 12 - Holten to Laren, Sept. 22

It was a lovely shorter day, 16.5 km, but it started out with torrential rain. We just waited it out at the hotel and set out after the worst was over. After a cappuccino in Holten we soon found ourselves on a narrow path between corn fields. But soon we were on a road that led us to the busy highway, the A1. We heard the traffic noise coming closer and closer. There was an overpass to cross and the freeway was soon a memory. The PP tries very hard to encompass scenic parts of Holland and today we traversed a very lovely dike which had ancient fat beeches standing guard on either side. 

After crossing lots of farmlands we encountered major mud in a working forest. There is logging going on and huge vehicles churn up the dirt road. Two women we met earlier in the day warned us about it and suggested a detour that we gladly took. We had such a pleasant talk with these women. The older one had the same expressive face as the actress, Vanessa Redgrave. 

We are in the Achterhoek now, almost in Gelderland, and we encountered our first castle, the Huis Verwolde. Surrounded by gorgeous land, of course. 

After another lovely, romantic little trail with a pretty fence we arrived in the small village of Laren at the Stegeman Cafe where we waited for our ride to our hotel in Vorden. Tomorrow we get brought back to the cafe and walk to Vorden. 

By the way, nearly all our lunches are picnics. We make it at breakfast and it generally consists of raisin bread and cheese and brown bread and cheese. Koek, if we can get it. Today we had jummy  chocolate milk. We passed a self-help kiosk where we bought some bananas. There are lots of benches to take a break.

After tomorrow we are half way and start book two. Hard to believe!

Day 11 - Hellendoorn to Holten

After breakfast we were dropped off in front of the old church in Hellendoorn, to continue our journey. The Barg Willem was a really neat place in the countryside, totally quiet and dark at night, but too pricey to be tiptoeing down the hall to the bathroom in some one's house. Within moments we were back on a wooded trail and made a small detour for a cappuccino at the Uitkyk, a wonderful, small hotel practically on the path. 

The highlight of today's walk would have to be the hiking through the national park, the Sallandse Heuvelrug. It was marvellous walking through rolling hills of heather and birch trees. Apparently, this area was formed during the ice age when the pressure of the ice caused the land to fold up. Beautiful views from the top again. 

We passed another war camp, the Twilhaar. Just the arch of the entrance remains. A bit creepy, in the middle of the woods. Also, just one km from us is the Holten Canadian war cemetary where 1355 Canadian soldiers are buried. It is deemed Canadian territory. We did not visit because it is not on the route and our feet are sore. We will be passing the big one near Groesbeek later on. We did have a chat with a Canadian veteran from Hamilton, lots of medals on his chest. 

We got a bit lost again this morning, but this time in the forest. In moments a couple with their dog appeared and directed us to the PP. if there is one theme for our journey it is the kindness and hospitality of the Dutch people we meet daily!

Day 10, Ommen to Hellendoorn

We left Ommen this morning, refreshed and full of energy, after our day of rest. Weather remains very good for walking, overcast and cool but no rain until we are done for the day.

We were soon in Niewebrug where a lovely cafe served us cappuccinos and the best apple tart yet. It was cosy in there with all the walkers having a break. It did not take long before we encountered our first HILL! It is covered with purple heather and is 75 meters high. From the top a gorgeous view. The name of this "mountain" is Archemerberg. We broke into a slight sweat for the first time. Signage was excellent.

Then in the afternoon we were on a bike path along a very long road and suddenly realized there were no more signs. We had lost the Pieterpad or it had lost us. Not a great feeling. But all you need to do is stand at a crossroad, book in hand and puzzled expression, and someone will stop to help you. A friendly biker stopped  and told us how to get to Hellendoorn along some small road. So there we marched along the side of the road, for 6 km. Eventually, we reached the destination and had beer and fries as our reward. Lots of other Pieterpadders at De Kroon and we had a nice chat with one of them. 

At 5 we got picked up and taken to another B and B (Barg Willem) where we have another bedroom with a slanted roof over our bed. However, the people are very sweet and they are making us dinner!

Today was 22.10 km, 31,487 steps for me. Luckily, the next three days are shorter. We feel like Hobbits as we find our way in and out of woodlands, along cornfields and through old villages. Really an adventure!

We passed two small war memorials. One had to do with Camp Erika, which served as a concentration camp. The path we were on in the woods was used to march people there. The other was by a field where an RAF plane had crashed. I guess we will see more of this, being so close to the border. 

Rest Day in Ommen, September 19

We slept well and had a great breakfast. There is a living room in the basement where we sat for a while and read. Then, at 11, we set off for the town. This is a walk of about 2 km so not great for a rest day. We are back at the B and B and my Fitbit says I walked just under 8 km today. 

However, what a charming town Ommen is. There is a cosy car free downtown and we quickly found a place to have a cappuccino. While Jeff looked at his phone I read a Dutch newspaper, the Telegraph. 

A bit later we had a marvellous lunch at the old townhall right on the Vecht. We sat outside but soon had to take shelter under a canopy because of sudden, but brief, heavy rain. While eating our croquette and uitsmyters we heard band music playing. Eventually, we made our way to the gathering and saw at least 300 people or so with a red rose in their hands. It was a somber business. I asked the woman next to me who was being remembered. She told me that it was a national memorial event for parents who had lost a child through violence. She said her own son was stabbed 5 months ago. I impulsively put my arm around her and said, "I am so sorry." The memorial so happened to be in Ommen this year. The band played all kinds of familiar hymns like "Abide with me", "O Sacred Head Now Wounded", " Great is Thy Faithfulness", etc. I thought that was interesting considering that Holland has the reputation for not being that religious anymore. Jeff and I both were quite taken with the whole thing.

Now we are back in our room and the sun is shining. In the field behind us is a herd of Lakenvelders, those cattle that are black except for a thick white band, like a wide saddle, over the top.

Day 9 - Hardenberg to Ommen, Friday, September 18

This morning we left Hardenberg in lovely weather and were soon in quiet, rural areas again. The Pieterpad tries to avoid busy roads as much as possible. It follows narrow paved roads, country lanes, bike paths and sand trails. 

We walked through the tiny town of Rheeze at around 10 this morning and were very excited when we passed a tidy looking blackboard advertising Italian coffee, homemade apple tart, ice cream with fruit. But we could not figure out where this was being served and reluctantly moved on. There were no other places whatsoever to have coffee or soup so we made do with the lovely picnic tables and benches here and there. 

Everywhere there are enormous oak trees with lots of acorns lying around. Jeff remembers collecting these for pig food as a boy and getting 10 cents for a bucket full. 

I am starting to have some blister problems. I control it with a product called Compeed. The good news is it contains a gel which makes it possible to keep walking with just a little bit of pain. The bad news? The gel comes out a bit and sticks to your socks like a wad of gum.

We are again in a bathroom sharing B & B. Ommen is a big place and we passed several hotels. One with a spa! How sad. This place is also out in the country, at least 2 km outside of Ommen. Crazy! You should hear the cows right now. Non-stop bellowing! Maybe they don't like sharing bathrooms either. However, we will adapt and make the best of it. 

Day 8 - Coevorden to Hardenberg, Sept. 17, 2015

Today was very overcast and blustery. But, again, we managed to dodge the rain. It seems to pour as soon as we get to our evening place. We walked 20 km along small paved roads as well as grassy tracks along sloughs. Very Dutch. We stopped in Gramsbergen for some delicious vegetable soup. There were thick carpet-like table cloths on each table. We were sitting by the window. Where Fritz was we did not know. However, suddenly he passed our window, saw us, and came in to enjoy some soup. We had a lovely chat with Fritz and the owner of the cafe. The subject was mainly how Coevorden is related to Vancouver. In the pm we plodded on and took advantage of benches when we passed them. Also, lots of freeways near by today. Can't escape that entirely. 

Just had the best cup of tea ever while Jeff enjoyed a beer. 

Oh, yes. We passed the Drenthe Poort this morning and are now in Overijssel. The Dutch seem quite proud of the Pieterpad. People are helpful if we look lost. Today, a guy even came out of his house to help us. Generally, signage is good, though.