Day 16 - Braamt to Millingen-on-the-Rhine. Sept. 26

Great weather has returned and we left Braamt behind, in sunshine, at 8:40 this morning. It was a long day of 24 km and we are feeling it right now. For the first two hours we climbed a hill and walked through woods. When we finally emerged back into the sunshine we were in Germany and there was a pannekoekhuys waiting for us just at about the noon hour. You NEVER pass that by. This was in Elten. 

After enjoying apple pancakes we had a long slog beside a road, cars and bikes whizzing by. We soon saw the mighty Rhine and our walk took us on a long dike. Also, cars on that. Our reward turned out to be the town of Tolkamer which has several outdoor cafes right on the dike overlooking the river. Weather was sunny so it was very cosy sitting with all those people outside watching the river boats passing by. 

Another hour or so brought us to the ferry which eventually took us across the river to Millingen. This could be compared to the Barnston Island ferry except no cars at all. The ferry driver was dodging all those long river boats coming by. We had to wait for our ride to a B & B in Leuth so we just ordered some more tea and people watched. 

Now we are at the B & B and what a place. We have a whole apartment to ourselves. There are no funny smells or unappetizing people. The last place I was SO happy to leave. 

There are 10 walking days left so we are definitely on the home stretch. We have immensely enjoyed it so far!

Day 15 - Zelhem to Braamt, Sept. 25

Another lovely day of walking with Brian and Florence. Jeff and I were driven back to Zelhem and met them at about 9:15 for the start of the day's walk. Signage out of the town was good. However, we entirely missed the Slagenburg Kasteel. Florence got us back to the Pieterpad without backtracking. After going under a busy expressway we were rewarded with a cappuccino and apple tart at a lovely, old Cafe, Het Onland. From the 1700's. Lots of character......and "riete stoolen".

We set off again and started looking for a bench for lunch. Only one bench today but we were glad of it to rest our feet and eat our buns. The last part of the route, just before Braamt, took us along a very primitive path bordering a field. Really fun to find yourself off road in the middle of farm land. 

And finally we saw a windmill and arrived in Braamt. We all went to our little auberge and had beer and bitterballen. We had to say goodbye to Brian and Florence who had to bus and train their way back to Velp near Arnhem. We had a great two days with them and will miss them as we continue on tomorrow. We have entered the area of the big rivers and tomorrow plan to take a small ferry across part of the Rhine. 

Day 14 - Vorden to Zelhem, Sept. 24

We enjoyed the Hotel Bakker in Vorden for two nights but it was time to move on. At 9:15 we met Florence and Brian at the railway station. We could not believe we were meeting each other. Off we went, the four of us, and very soon arrived at the Kasteel Vorden as well as the Pieterpad monument. This consists of some brass footprints made by the two women who had the idea of the Pieterpad. Of course, Florence and I had to place our boots in those famous footprints.

It was an easy day again, through woods and fields, and soon we looked forward to coffee. But the little Proathuusje was closed. Plan B was a sandwich from our backpacks and a swig of water. On we went. The day flew by because of all the cosy talking we did. Easy to get lost now because we were not paying too much attention. But the guys kept their eyes on the trees and posts for the familiar sign. We did come across another gorgeous red mushroom and had to take a pic. Just before entering Zelhem the path took us through a farmyard and right along the edge of a field. This farmer had given his permission to allow us to pass. We also came across another self serve place where you could make coffee, etc. and enjoy a snack, for a small fee. Loved that!

In Zelhem we had to wait for our ride to our accommodation in Braamt. There was plenty of time for some beer and bitterballen. 

We are less than enchanted with our room but we can turn radiators on and dry our little wash. We are grateful for small things. 

Day 13 - Laren to Vorden, Sept. 23 - Half Way!!!!!

We are excited because Book I is done. We are half way. I have added my steps and have walked 357,722 steps (according to my Fitbit), not counting the rest days. This is for 13 days of walking. 

We stayed in Vorden last night and were brought back to Laren after breakfast. It was an uneventful day, just 14 km, through peaceful forests and farmlands. No villages so we sat on all the benches that we passed. Each time we have a small snack. The weather cleared up and is quite beautiful right now. 

This area seems to be where the gentry used to live. Lots of big estates, now owned by the government. Lovely little castles in beautiful surroundings. One we passed was called Den Bramel. Some date back to 14th century. 

We have been using Jeff's cell phone to take pics. His camera is too cumbersome and it has also been too wet. If Jeff is in the pic then I took it. If I am in the pic Jeff did. If the object is low, like another mushroom, I take those because Jeff can't bend too well re his back!

We finally had a tasty dinner, last night, here at the Hotel Bakker in Vorden. We enjoyed some zee tong (sole) which was filleted off the bone at our table. 

My feet are holding up as is Jeff's back (after he moves around a bit in the morning). So we are looking forward to the next 13 days and hope all goes well.

Day 12 - Holten to Laren, Sept. 22

It was a lovely shorter day, 16.5 km, but it started out with torrential rain. We just waited it out at the hotel and set out after the worst was over. After a cappuccino in Holten we soon found ourselves on a narrow path between corn fields. But soon we were on a road that led us to the busy highway, the A1. We heard the traffic noise coming closer and closer. There was an overpass to cross and the freeway was soon a memory. The PP tries very hard to encompass scenic parts of Holland and today we traversed a very lovely dike which had ancient fat beeches standing guard on either side. 

After crossing lots of farmlands we encountered major mud in a working forest. There is logging going on and huge vehicles churn up the dirt road. Two women we met earlier in the day warned us about it and suggested a detour that we gladly took. We had such a pleasant talk with these women. The older one had the same expressive face as the actress, Vanessa Redgrave. 

We are in the Achterhoek now, almost in Gelderland, and we encountered our first castle, the Huis Verwolde. Surrounded by gorgeous land, of course. 

After another lovely, romantic little trail with a pretty fence we arrived in the small village of Laren at the Stegeman Cafe where we waited for our ride to our hotel in Vorden. Tomorrow we get brought back to the cafe and walk to Vorden. 

By the way, nearly all our lunches are picnics. We make it at breakfast and it generally consists of raisin bread and cheese and brown bread and cheese. Koek, if we can get it. Today we had jummy  chocolate milk. We passed a self-help kiosk where we bought some bananas. There are lots of benches to take a break.

After tomorrow we are half way and start book two. Hard to believe!

Day 11 - Hellendoorn to Holten

After breakfast we were dropped off in front of the old church in Hellendoorn, to continue our journey. The Barg Willem was a really neat place in the countryside, totally quiet and dark at night, but too pricey to be tiptoeing down the hall to the bathroom in some one's house. Within moments we were back on a wooded trail and made a small detour for a cappuccino at the Uitkyk, a wonderful, small hotel practically on the path. 

The highlight of today's walk would have to be the hiking through the national park, the Sallandse Heuvelrug. It was marvellous walking through rolling hills of heather and birch trees. Apparently, this area was formed during the ice age when the pressure of the ice caused the land to fold up. Beautiful views from the top again. 

We passed another war camp, the Twilhaar. Just the arch of the entrance remains. A bit creepy, in the middle of the woods. Also, just one km from us is the Holten Canadian war cemetary where 1355 Canadian soldiers are buried. It is deemed Canadian territory. We did not visit because it is not on the route and our feet are sore. We will be passing the big one near Groesbeek later on. We did have a chat with a Canadian veteran from Hamilton, lots of medals on his chest. 

We got a bit lost again this morning, but this time in the forest. In moments a couple with their dog appeared and directed us to the PP. if there is one theme for our journey it is the kindness and hospitality of the Dutch people we meet daily!