Day 10, Ommen to Hellendoorn

We left Ommen this morning, refreshed and full of energy, after our day of rest. Weather remains very good for walking, overcast and cool but no rain until we are done for the day.

We were soon in Niewebrug where a lovely cafe served us cappuccinos and the best apple tart yet. It was cosy in there with all the walkers having a break. It did not take long before we encountered our first HILL! It is covered with purple heather and is 75 meters high. From the top a gorgeous view. The name of this "mountain" is Archemerberg. We broke into a slight sweat for the first time. Signage was excellent.

Then in the afternoon we were on a bike path along a very long road and suddenly realized there were no more signs. We had lost the Pieterpad or it had lost us. Not a great feeling. But all you need to do is stand at a crossroad, book in hand and puzzled expression, and someone will stop to help you. A friendly biker stopped  and told us how to get to Hellendoorn along some small road. So there we marched along the side of the road, for 6 km. Eventually, we reached the destination and had beer and fries as our reward. Lots of other Pieterpadders at De Kroon and we had a nice chat with one of them. 

At 5 we got picked up and taken to another B and B (Barg Willem) where we have another bedroom with a slanted roof over our bed. However, the people are very sweet and they are making us dinner!

Today was 22.10 km, 31,487 steps for me. Luckily, the next three days are shorter. We feel like Hobbits as we find our way in and out of woodlands, along cornfields and through old villages. Really an adventure!

We passed two small war memorials. One had to do with Camp Erika, which served as a concentration camp. The path we were on in the woods was used to march people there. The other was by a field where an RAF plane had crashed. I guess we will see more of this, being so close to the border. 

Rest Day in Ommen, September 19

We slept well and had a great breakfast. There is a living room in the basement where we sat for a while and read. Then, at 11, we set off for the town. This is a walk of about 2 km so not great for a rest day. We are back at the B and B and my Fitbit says I walked just under 8 km today. 

However, what a charming town Ommen is. There is a cosy car free downtown and we quickly found a place to have a cappuccino. While Jeff looked at his phone I read a Dutch newspaper, the Telegraph. 

A bit later we had a marvellous lunch at the old townhall right on the Vecht. We sat outside but soon had to take shelter under a canopy because of sudden, but brief, heavy rain. While eating our croquette and uitsmyters we heard band music playing. Eventually, we made our way to the gathering and saw at least 300 people or so with a red rose in their hands. It was a somber business. I asked the woman next to me who was being remembered. She told me that it was a national memorial event for parents who had lost a child through violence. She said her own son was stabbed 5 months ago. I impulsively put my arm around her and said, "I am so sorry." The memorial so happened to be in Ommen this year. The band played all kinds of familiar hymns like "Abide with me", "O Sacred Head Now Wounded", " Great is Thy Faithfulness", etc. I thought that was interesting considering that Holland has the reputation for not being that religious anymore. Jeff and I both were quite taken with the whole thing.

Now we are back in our room and the sun is shining. In the field behind us is a herd of Lakenvelders, those cattle that are black except for a thick white band, like a wide saddle, over the top.

Day 9 - Hardenberg to Ommen, Friday, September 18

This morning we left Hardenberg in lovely weather and were soon in quiet, rural areas again. The Pieterpad tries to avoid busy roads as much as possible. It follows narrow paved roads, country lanes, bike paths and sand trails. 

We walked through the tiny town of Rheeze at around 10 this morning and were very excited when we passed a tidy looking blackboard advertising Italian coffee, homemade apple tart, ice cream with fruit. But we could not figure out where this was being served and reluctantly moved on. There were no other places whatsoever to have coffee or soup so we made do with the lovely picnic tables and benches here and there. 

Everywhere there are enormous oak trees with lots of acorns lying around. Jeff remembers collecting these for pig food as a boy and getting 10 cents for a bucket full. 

I am starting to have some blister problems. I control it with a product called Compeed. The good news is it contains a gel which makes it possible to keep walking with just a little bit of pain. The bad news? The gel comes out a bit and sticks to your socks like a wad of gum.

We are again in a bathroom sharing B & B. Ommen is a big place and we passed several hotels. One with a spa! How sad. This place is also out in the country, at least 2 km outside of Ommen. Crazy! You should hear the cows right now. Non-stop bellowing! Maybe they don't like sharing bathrooms either. However, we will adapt and make the best of it. 

Day 8 - Coevorden to Hardenberg, Sept. 17, 2015

Today was very overcast and blustery. But, again, we managed to dodge the rain. It seems to pour as soon as we get to our evening place. We walked 20 km along small paved roads as well as grassy tracks along sloughs. Very Dutch. We stopped in Gramsbergen for some delicious vegetable soup. There were thick carpet-like table cloths on each table. We were sitting by the window. Where Fritz was we did not know. However, suddenly he passed our window, saw us, and came in to enjoy some soup. We had a lovely chat with Fritz and the owner of the cafe. The subject was mainly how Coevorden is related to Vancouver. In the pm we plodded on and took advantage of benches when we passed them. Also, lots of freeways near by today. Can't escape that entirely. 

Just had the best cup of tea ever while Jeff enjoyed a beer. 

Oh, yes. We passed the Drenthe Poort this morning and are now in Overijssel. The Dutch seem quite proud of the Pieterpad. People are helpful if we look lost. Today, a guy even came out of his house to help us. Generally, signage is good, though.

Day 7 - Sleen to Coevorden

We spent another night in Schoonloo so we had to take a bus to Sleen. It took a bit of effort to find the right bus stop but after three attempts we found it. It did not have a shelter like the other three. We started walking in Sleen under heavily overcast skies. We thought rain for sure but it did not happen. We have been very lucky so far with weather. 

We regularly bump into three different people walking the same sections as we are. There is Fritz who had to walk back a km this morning because he forgot his hiking pole at the B & B. And then there is the mother and daughter pair (Greet and Rowena) who are doing two sections at a time. 

There were no forests to walk through today. Lots of small country roads. Some of these roads were canopied by huge trees. We walked through the village of DenHool with very old farms in it. Lovely!

Now in Coevorden in a Best Western with our own bathroom which boasts a separate shower and tub. A luxury!

We have been walking seven days now and it feels like our bodies are adjusting to all that walking.

Day 6 - Schoonloo to Sleen

Today was a very long day. Walked 24 km which is 34,324 steps. My Fitbit was glowing, as were my feet. Rain was predicted but we had none. The paths were mostly soft, through endless woodlands. Did not know Holland was that forested. No possibilities for cappuccinos at all today. However, a farm that we passed offered self-help tea and coffee plus stroop waffles for a small fee. Honour system. We could sit in a cozy little room and there was even a clean bathroom at our disposal. Such great Dutch hospitality. 

What made our day so long was that we got lost twice. Not for very long but enough that it added to our day. The forests are crisscrossed with sand roads, small paths and bike trails. And you better pay attention. Our little map book helped a lot. 

We are looking forward to a good dinner tonight. A young couple are Michelin chefs here. Last night's dinner across the street was not great. I could not chew the meat. 

We are feeling great despite the walking, walking, walking. We are meeting other lovely walkers and it is fun to share stories. 

It is raining now and damp in our room. I just figured out how to turn on the heat. 

Day 5 - Rolde to Schoonloo, Sept. 14

It rained on us three times today but we stayed cosy and warm with our rain gear. The temperature is mild and there was no wind. Just some mud here and there. Our route took us through forests and along fields. No towns at all. A very lonely feel. Sometimes we wonder if we are going the right way and then we see the reassuring white and red blaze on a tree. A metaphor for life. 

In one of the forests we passed a bomb crater from WW II. It had become unrecognizable so local students removed trees, etc. now there is a sign, too. Allied bombers had dropped some bombs too soon. 

We were on a very muddy wooded path leading into Schoonloo when we came upon a sign that said, "Pieterburen 86 km, St. Pietersberg 410 km." Can't believe we have come so far already.

The silage corn is still standing tall in the fields. When it rained on the corn plants it sounded like a gentle waterfall or rapids.