A Brief Reflection

So, did I find anything from my past? I would have to say, very little. For one thing, I never lived in any of the parts we walked through. However, I identified very much with the Dutch language except here, in Limburg, where the locals speak a strong dialect. It is even difficult to find a Gereformeerde Kerk, as these have joined with others to become Protestante Kerken.

As I have mentioned before, we were so impressed with the unfailing kindness of strangers, even in those accommodations where I would rather not be. Also, the landscape never disappointed. Only rarely did we think that the walk was getting boring. Finding our way was a challenge and a game. We got rather good at it. We will miss the white and red markers. 

So now we are waiting for our ride to the train station in Maastricht. We are hearing there is trouble somewhere with water on a track. So we shall see if we make it to Schiphol, let alone Vancouver. 

Jeff made it with his back issue and my usual toe problem did not surface. We are thankful.

Upward and onward back to our lives in BC. We have already received an invite to dinner for Sunday...Thank you, Carolyn.

Day 26 - Valkenburg to Sint Pietersberg, Oct. 7

We made it!!!! 492 km in 26 days! From the very top of Holland to the bottom.

There was a heavy drizzle when we left Valkenberg this morning. But it is Holland so we should expect some of this. After a terrific breakfast we were pumped to walk our last day. It was quite hilly here and there so we soon were pretty hot under our rain gear. There were three cups (cafes) on the map but each one was closed! Could not believe this. 

Onward we trudged through forest and meadow and even past lime stone caves. Soon, the spires of Maastricht came into view and we could also make out Sint Pietersberg in the distance.

It is fun to gradually enter a city. It got busier and busier but we were helped along by the white and red signage that faithfully guided us from the beginning. Maastricht's city centre has the look and feel of a small Paris or London. Very ornate buildings, narrow allies, cobble stones and the Maas River running through it. On top of that we passed the ruins of Roman walls. In the middle of the city!

But we had to keep going. Up and up the small mountain. At last we reached the end. There was a couple we met yesterday and we took each other's photos. The Pieterpad turns into the GR 5 and this will take you to Nice, at 1800 km. All in all it was anticlimactic because there's not much there except for a stone with a bit of writing on it and the pole with trail directions. But we know that it's the journey and not the ending that counts. We did get a certificate of completion at a restaurant near by called The Berg Rust.

Tomorrow I will try to summarize the whole experience with one more blog entry.

Day 25 - Sittard to Valkenberg, Oct. 6

A little about last night. We were not overly pleased with our accommodation. It was a hot, stuffy little room. It would have been a good place to dry some laundry. The hotel guy was not very friendly. He had already made our lunches even though we like to do that ourselves. I told him I don't want butter on my bread and that I would take a bun for lunch at the breakfast table. He threw up his hands! 

Anyway, we found the square in the centre of town. Delightful. But where to have dinner? I have an uncanny sense for finding expensive places and we indeed had a lovely dinner and were treated like royalty. 

This morning I woke up with gastro-intestinal  issues and Jeff with a cold. We blame the hot room. We delved into our drug cache for relief. I said, no more apple tart, whipped cream or fries. I nibbled on a rusk at breakfast and wondered how far that would get me. 

Today turned out to be a wonderful day, again. Soon after leaving Sittard we came across the Stations of the Cross as well as the Mount of Olives. All in the woods. Then, in the tiny town of Windraak there was our first Cafe, not open until 10:30. But it was only 9:45. The owners were already there and said, come in, come in. So hospitable!! I had just tea, at this point. 

A lot of hills today and beautiful rolling fields. Jeff said we climbed 900 feet. We reached Kasteel TorBorgh, which is for sale (who would want it) and there is a cute Cafe attached to it. Another stop. This time I am feeling completely recovered and have coffee and applegebak. 

After this we climb up this riverbed-like gully in deep woods and it reminds me of the camino. Our most difficult footing yet. We emerge on top of the world amidst rolling fields of corn and other produce. Views in every direction.

On the heels of that we pass through the village of Terstraten which boasts the most amazing farm houses. And then we are in the woods again, following a "church path" that people used to take on Sundays. 

We are getting tired now, having walked since 8:30 this morning. It is after 3. We reach Strabeek and curse the guy who arranged things for us. "What an ass, to put us in Valkenburg, 1200 meters from the PP," we say. It makes for a 24 km plus day. But when we get to the Tummers hotel we are so happy. Lovely room and a dining room with white table cloths. All is forgiven. 

Only one more day! 

Day 24 - Montfort to Sittard, Oct. 5

You probably are thinking that we wandered through more cornfields, cow paths, woods, etc. Yes, we did all that today but we also came across some astonishing things as well. Right off the bat, coming out of Montfort, there was a ruin of an old castle. The Montfort Castle built in 1260 in the time of the bow and arrow, according to our little book. A surprising sight to see in Holland. Then, just before noon we came across something that is not even in our guide book because it was discovered last year, 2014. Right on the route of the PP someone dug up gold coins and rings and silver artifacts from Roman times, around 400 AD. There is now a neat plaque explaining the whole thing. You do wonder how someone got the idea to start digging just at that spot. We also passed a memorial of a downed allied plane. The exact spot is marked and corn grows all around it. Someone is still bringing fresh flowers to the memorial, for something that happened 75 years ago now.

Anyway, all of this made up for our disappointment that the only Cafe on the route was closed. It was in the very cute town of Slek that had a beautiful small chapel where I lit a candle for my sister, Ada.

It was a gruelling long day at 24 km. We sort of have to push ourselves to keep going. When we finally got to Sittard we rewarded ourselves with a tea and Tom Poes. Wow, those are good. 

When we got here our luggage had not arrived. I took a bath, hoping for the best. And luckily they arrived and I now have (relatively) clean clothes on. Ready to hit the town. Apparently there is a town square with small places to eat. 

By the way, people speak in a very strong dialect here and we can't understand a thing!

Two more days........

Day 23 - Swalmen to Montfort, Oct. 4

It was a much better day than yesterday. It was longer, at almost 23 km, but a lot more variety. Our host from the B & B drove us to the centre of Swalmen so that our day would not be 30 km. We set off between the old church and townhall and soon were in the countryside. Some trails were little more than cow paths. At one point we had to walk between some big black cattle. They were right on the path. Jeff went first, with his poles at the ready. I whispered behind him, "Protect me, protect me". But, really, the animals did not care and kept munching.

On one of the roads we met a guy who was raising Piedmont cattle from Italy. Apparently, very tender beef. He was eager to tell us about this.  He had just been to Newfoundland, to see whales. Jeff and I hate B & B's but we do seem to like chatting with people we meet during the day.

At our first break at a lovely cafe at Spik there was a dog training session going on. Soon, all the dog owners, and their dogs, were sitting at the cafe for coffee. Twenty people with twenty dogs. We were surrounded. The trainer kept saying "sshh" to all the barking dogs. Fascinating!

It was a bit tedious getting around the city of Roermond but soon we left that behind, too. Time for tea now and we found a lovely Cafe in Sint Odilienberg, a gorgeous old town with a stunning cathedral. It dates from the 8 th century as an abbey. In 1945 anything with a tower was destroyed by the Nazis. So this church, too, has been rebuilt. 

At the cafe we met 4 ladies doing the whole Pieterpad but in 7 years. We had a lively chat with them. And then, in the woods just before Montfort, we met a couple who do the PP by leaving a car here and their bikes there. Talking to them felt like talking to old friends. Quite amazing.

Tonight we have hit the jackpot with B & B's. A lovely place. Own bathroom, high ceiling, clean, bright. The Groenegast it is called. The lady made us a pot of tea, with cookies. We do have to walk back into town for dinner but it is only 10 minutes.

Three more days.....

Day 22 - Venlo to Swalmen (almost), Oct. 3

We were ready to go after our break and had no trouble getting out of Venlo. Sometimes it is difficult to keep your eyes peeled for the markers, with all the distractions of a city. But we are getting really good at scanning posts and trees.

The first hour was lovely but after that we hit a dirt road in the woods that straddled the Dutch German border. It went on and on and on. Very little relief. Early on we did walk on a narrow path on the lip of a steep precipice. We also saw a number of red mushrooms again. And at noon there was a cafe that served pea soup. So not too bad. We also encountered a mushroom picker, horseback riders, a large group of women hikers as well as lots of bikers. It is Saturday. 

But after our lunch we hit these long and rather dull roads again, through forest. You just have to put yourself on automatic. And then we grumbled about where we were spending the night, at a place totally out of the way and in the middle of nowhere. We got there through the back way, which meant an almost invisible trail through fields and woods. However, we were so pleasantly surprised by our room and the setting. Our own bathroom, sitting area outside, clean and bright and a very nice lady showing us the ropes. 

Two concessions have been made for us. We are being picked up at 5:30 by a guy who owns a restaurant in town, for dinner. And tomorrow morning we get driven to Swalmen so that we don't have a super long day of walking. 

Four more days......

Rest Day in Venlo, Oct. 2

We are very glad we did not stay in Swolgen but, instead, went to Venlo for our rest day. It is a simple hotel we are in, with a small room, dirty carpet and streaks on the wall. But the location is excellent. Near the city centre as well as on the Pieterpad route. 

This morning we backtracked to where we last saw the PP sign yesterday, coming into the city. It felt like we knew a secret language as we followed the signs to the hotel. Yesterday we lost it as we entered the city, tired and overwhelmed. A kind man helped us find the hotel.

This morning Jeff wore shorts. But it was very cold first thing and he soon got teased by a stranger re his bare legs. But the sun soon heated the air and we joined the throngs at the outside tables. A cappuccino here, tea there, now a pancake, etc. Lots of fun! 

Venlo has a few gorgeous buildings. One of them is the old city hall which fronts a big square. Very impressive. It dates from the 1600's. Hard to tell, though, what is still original and what has been rebuilt after the war. A lot of damage was sustained here.

We have five days left of walking, a bit over 100 km. But we are ready to tackle it again. Sunshine continues for now...